December 2024 -Tokyo
My Tokyo holiday trip took place from 8 – 14 Dec. After setting off from London, Heathrow on Sat, 7 Dec at 8:00, due to the time difference and a long flight, I landed in Tokyo, Haneda on Sun, 8 Dec at 7:35 local time.
Since my trip is full of positive experiences and impressions, here is a little disclaimer to say none of the companies mentioned are sponsoring me in any way.
I flew there and back with Japan Airlines, which I can wholeheartedly recommend. Their economy seats are large enough even for a tall person, their service is second to none and their food is plentiful and so good I would move to one of the planes permanently if it was an option.
After landing in Tokyo, I activated the Mobal SIM, which I purchased online in advance and which was posted to me prior to the journey. Mobal also offers eSIMs, which are even less hassle, but my phone is quite old, so I went for the old-fashioned physical SIM. The experience was seamless. On arrival, my phone promptly connected to the internet and remained so for the duration of the stay.
After a ride on Limousine Bus that connects Haneda airport with the city of Tokyo, I reached Sunroute Plaza Hotel in Shinjuku, which was my base for the next 5 nights. I can thoroughly recommend the Sunroute Plaza hotel. The convenience, amenities, area, close proximity to several attractions, helpful staff - in short, I was very happy there and loved its Shinjuku location.
FIRST DAY
Since I arrived from the airport early and the hotel check-in was at 15:00, after leaving the luggage at the hotel, I spent all daylight hours in Shinjuku’s Gyoen National Garden, which was nearby. I did not have a sightseeing plan for the trip, but knew I’d be aiming to see the autumn colours of trees in parks, the neon lights of Tokyo and maybe a temple or two.
The Gyoen National Gardens thoroughly fulfilled my first wish. It was beautiful sunshine weather and I was free to roam the park and take many photos of gold and red-leafed trees. Starbucks in the middle of the park provided extra comfort.
In the evening of the same day, I went to Kabukicho, the red-light district of Tokyo, which is very colourful in more than one way and filled with eateries. I took a taxi, not realising Kabukicho was walking distance from my hotel, approx. 20 min walk. That was the first and the last taxi I took. My thriftiness kicked in and I was using the metro or walking from then on. Nothing wrong with using local taxis though. My taxi driver was very kind, he stopped me before I left the car and told me that although this is Japan and therefore safe, if someone tries to attract my attention: Do not follow them. Our ‘talking’ was done on the phone translator app due to my lack of Japanese language skills.
Kabukicho was bright, busy and full of good-looking people trying to get your attention to visit nearby establishments, host or hostess clubs, love hotels, eateries.
SECOND DAY
In the morning I went to Sensoji Temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo. There are halls, gates, pagodas, and places where you can ask for answers to questions about wealth, health, happiness, love. There is a lot of content and shopping and wonderful sights, including a huge red lantern.
In the evening, I went to Shibuya because how could I not visit the famous Scramble Square crossing where over 2 million pedestrians cross the street every day, 2500 people per crossing. Whilst there, I walked around Shibuya to take in the night sights. The area is lively with youth culture, restaurants, clubs and shopping day and night.
This was my first day of using Tokyo public transport, namely trains. I won’t expand on it because it would be a whole blog, but suffice to say that Shinjuku Station, which was my local, has over 200 exits and it is the world’s busiest railway station with 3.6 million passengers a day.
Shibuya Scramble Crossing
THIRD DAY
On my third day in Tokyo, I went to Tsukiji fish market. The famous early-morning tuna auctions now take place in the new Toyosu fish market, which has replaced Tsukiji as one of the biggest fish markets in the world. However, whilst Toyosu is built with hygiene, efficiency and modern times in mind, I was happy to visit Tsukiji, which is not as neat but has masses of charm with plenty of shopping and eating squeezed in narrow little alleys. Like many other natives and holidaymakers, I went to Tsukiji to eat street food. My choice was very tasty tuna and scallops sashimi, A5-grade Wagyu beef and a kind of fish cake on a stick made of shrimp, ginger and cabbage. I wish I could have had more because the food choice did not stop there, but I was full even for the biggest oysters I have seen in my entire life.
In the afternoon I visited the 45th-floor Observatory in the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office Building. The aim was to view Mt. Fuji, but Mt. Fuji was shy on the day. I could make it out through the haze, but only just.
I saw Mt. Fuji very clearly whilst on the bus from the airport to the hotel. The view was super clear and the peak looked vivid blue with a white cap of snow. We drove past too quickly for me to take a picture and I figured I would have plenty of time to see it again in the coming days. But on the day I went to the Observatory it was little hazy so I never saw it as clearly as on the first day.
Instead, the view of Tokyo was impressive.
FOURTH DAY
On my fourth day in Tokyo, I went to the Tokyo station with the intention of catching the bullet train to the nearby city so I could experience the speed. But I did not pre-book and the first shinkansen for that particular city was leaving in early afternoon, which I thought was too late considering the return journey, and the whole idea was abandoned. Since the Imperial Palace was close by, I went there, but again, it was not possible to visit if you haven’t pre-booked a place in the scheduled tour. Instead I spent some time in the Outer Imperial Palace Gardens.
With two of my ideas crashed, I decided to hop back on the train and go and see Takeshita Street in Harajuku with its famous urban street fashion.The area reminded me of Camden Town in London but with an obvious Tokyo flavour of kawaii (cute) culture, anime, funky clothes, cosplay, amazing sweet shops, dog and cat cafes and a newcomer micro pig cafe where you can pet tiny piglets.
FIFTH DAY
I decided to just potter around all day doing some shopping in the Shinjuku area. I wanted to try omurice, so went for lunch to Kanda Tamagoken Nishi-Shinjuku Store. Omurice in its basic form is rice with a softly cooked omelette on top. Mine had all that plus meltingly good beef stew on top. For dinner I had very good ramen from a small eatery that was an online recommendation and lived up to the reputation.
I did some shopping, including for a new cabin suitcase, which was mostly to bring back all the Japanese sweets and snacks I amassed!
SIXTH DAY
On my last day in Tokyo, I visited Meiji Jingu Temple and spent time walking in the surrounding woods area, which was very calming and tranquil.
In the afternoon I caught the Limousine Bus from the Sunroute Plaza hotel to Haneda Airport Terminal 3 and checked in at Villa Fontaine Grand Hotel for the last night before the morning flight to London.
The overnight stay in this largest airport hotel of 1700 rooms, which is directly connected to Terminal 3, comes with a ticket to an onsen, a Japanese bath and spa. According to the official sources, the quality of the thermal waters in this onsen was iodine sodium chloride strong salt hot spring. There are several pools with different water temperatures, some indoors and some outdoors. On a clear day, from the outdoor pools you can observe Mt. Fuji. There are also two jacuzzis and resting areas.
Swimsuits or any type of clothing are not allowed in Japanese onsens and consequently neither is any device with a camera. The tattoos were allowed, but this may not be the case for onsens in rural areas of Japan.
*There is much more I could say about Tokyo, about the cute chirping sound at the pedestrian crossing when the light is green, about the non-tipping culture, about the Melon Fanta I didn't know I needed in my life. And please, no one starts me on the unique toilets, which I also didn’t know I needed. And the Family Mart, and the and the *
Would I go back? In a heartbeat.
Happy travels!
Neon lights in Shibuya